Custom Concrete Tools (2025) — How to Build “The Pounder” Like a Pro

Every seasoned concrete finisher knows the frustration of chasing down high spots when the mud starts getting hard — especially around pipes, edges, or thick areas left behind by the machine. That’s when you reach for the Pounder — a simple, heavy-duty hand tool that lets you beat down those stubborn bumps and bring the slab back flat when other tools fail.

It’s a tool most finishers don’t realize they need until they’re stuck without one. And once you make it, you’ll wonder how you ever finished a job without it.

Want to make your concrete projects even easier? Check out the Concrete Buddy app — a free, all-in-one concrete calculator and estimator for pros and DIYers alike.

What the Pounder Does and Why It Matters

The Pounder’s job is simple: it levels out hardened concrete that can’t be fixed with a trowel or float. When the surface gets too stiff for traditional tools, a few firm hits with a Pounder can knock down a high spot or close up a low area before finishing.

The Pounder has a flat steel base that spreads force evenly, minimizing surface damage while still packing the concrete tight. It’s perfect for:

  • Flattening small humps around pipes or drains
  • Tightening up surface cream near walls or machine lines
  • Alternative to a hand mag

This is one of those tools that’s not sold in stores — every pro makes their own version. And here’s how.



Materials You’ll Need

All materials can be found on the job site or picked up cheap at your local hardware store:

  • ¼" Steel Plate (commonly 3" wide x 3 ft long – cut to size)
    Often found as scrap on-site or sold in flat bar form
  • Handle (Marshalltown replacement handles work great – choose your preference)
  • Screws (¼-20 machine screws work well)

Tools Required

  • Grinder (with cutting disc)
  • Drill or Drill Press
  • Tap and Die Set (for threading screws)
  • Screwdriver (for tightening)

How to Build the Pounder

  1. Cut the Steel: Use your grinder and cutting disc to cut the ¼" steel to about 11–12 inches long and 3 inches wide.
  2. Bevel the Edges: Lightly bevel the outer edges with your grinder — this prevents the Pounder from digging too deep into the surface when in use.
  3. Position the Handle: Mark a spot for the handle about 2 inches back from the front edge. This usually leaves ¼" to 1 inch of space from the back of the Pounder once mounted.
  4. Drill and Tap Holes: Drill your mounting holes and use your tap and die set to cut threads for the ¼-20 machine screws. Make sure they line up perfectly with your handle’s bolt pattern.
  5. Attach the Handle: Mount your handle securely. Tighten the screws down so they’re flush with the bottom surface — grind smooth if needed so nothing catches or scratches your finish.
  6. Clean and Polish: Hit the bottom with a quick grind or sanding pass to remove burrs and make sure the steel slides smoothly. Optional: give it a light oil coat to prevent rust.

Pro Tips for Using the Pounder

  • Use it while the surface is hard and you left it to long — or, to pound down bumps.
  • Swing it as hard as you want — this is now the toughest tool in your arsenal.
  • Keep it clean between pours — build up with fall off when pounding.

Why Every Finisher Should Have One

It’s simple: speed and precision. The Pounder saves jobs when time and temperature are working against you. It flattens, tightens, and smooths areas no float or trowel can reach.

And since it’s made from scrap or low-cost hardware materials, it’ll cost you maybe $10–$20 total — and last for years if you keep it clean.

Every pro who’s built one keeps it on the truck. Once you’ve used it, you’ll understand why.

Looking for more custom concrete tools? Check out our main guide: Best Hand Tools for Concrete Finishers (2025).

Want to take your concrete projects to the next level? Download the Concrete Buddy app for free — your all-in-one concrete calculator and resource for pros and DIYers.

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